Wild chamomile, for instance, is herbal, sweet and fresh, more reminiscent of the tea we drink to calm ourselves or beckon sleep. GivenchyXeryus Leather and perfumery go way back together, meanwhile. Este Lauder Private Collection Abundant on the banks of the Nile and in the marshes around the river, its use goes back to the time of the ancient Egyptians: some scrolls still survive from that time, and are still being deciphered by archaeologists. This nearly zero waste perfume brand also uses 90% recycled and 100% recyclable packaging. Acqua di ParmaIris Nobile, Koalas love it. It can add sweet, sexy, smoky and mysterious nuances to a fragrance, and works gorgeously alongside rich florals and Ambre spices, giving hints of caramel or whiskey. Its so powerful, though, that only a touch is needed and perfumers must proceed with caution: the scent in a closed room can be overwhelming. In China and Japan, its a national emblem and known as the king of the flowers. Heliotropes teamed with violets and iris for a talcum-powdery, lipstick-esque sweetness but as you may now have guessed, its actually very versatile, becoming almost mouthwatering when used alongside bitter almond, each ingredient turbo-charging the others marzipan-ish qualities. ChloLEau deChlo Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli Mango blossom, too, is sometimes used in perfumery: as sweetly floral as youd imagine these soft white flowers to be, with a breath of lily of the valley about them. Its extraordinary that a single plant can smell so different, depending on where its grown. But if youve ever received (or even grown) one of these bulbs (generally at Christmas), youll know what the name means: this trumpet-shaped flower really blooms when the foliage has died down. (And although described as blue, they can be tinged from white to pink to deep, almost hyacinth in colour). It can "lift" white flowers, but also - in partnership with woods or amber - can create roundness and depth. Christian Dior Miss DiorCherie LEau Chanel Cristalle Tom Ford Violet Blonde. Its actually a natural aroma chemical found in roses, but also citronella, geranium, palmarosa, petitgrain, eucalyptus. The most prized geranium of all comes from the Ile Bourbon, with its rich, green, fruity-mint rosiness. Aedes de Venustus Eau de Parfum Aveda Chakra 6 Intuition (Its sometimes spelled opopanax, too, with an a.). Evody Fleur dOranger Guerlain Elixir Charnel Chypre Fatal But do you enjoy wearing chocolate? Perfume ingredient chemicals are complex combinations of synthetic and/or natural substances which are added to products to give them a distinctive scent. Of all the fragrance ingredients out there, lavenders probably the most widely recognised (even if blindfolded) for its soothing, calming aromatic qualities. Illicium verum has to be the most beautiful-looking spice ever: star-shaped, with tiny, pungently-scented seeds. The links are rooted in the tradition of the gantier parfumeurs, a guild of glove-makers in Paris who fashioned gloves for royalty and the aristocracy as far back as the 15th Century. French Thyme), or Thymus vulgaris, from which most of the essential oil is steam-distilled. LArtisan Parfumeur Tubreuse Strictly, marshmallow is also a plant: Althaea officinalis was used to cure sore throats. Galbanum essential oil is quite different to the gum: intensely green, slightly bitter, earthy. Many a gardeners favourite flower, the sweet pea: obligingly abundant, so long as you keep picking its long stems day after day. Crabtree & Evelyn Lily Lancme Miracle Intense (Leading to the original name for perfume: per fumum, or through smoke) Myrrh was a key ingredient in the ancient incense kyphi, used to fumigate ancient Egyptian temples. endless. Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb: Most popular women's perfume. Theres an entire book dedicated to the story of ambergris:Floating Gold. Yardley English Lavender, Labdanum from the Cistus plant (better known to some gardeners as Rock Rose) is a pillar of chypre perfumes and many Ambres. (Or rather, lots of members: there are thousands of varieties of Malus domestica, a tree originating in Asia). PradaNo9 Benjoin Both were among the most popular perfume ingredients of ancient times, referred to as far back as ancient Egyptian unguent recipes. Dali Wild Its pricy the third-costliest spice in the world (after vanilla and saffron) but so aromatic that only a touch is needed of the essential oil thats steam-distilled from the seeds of the Elletaria cardomomum plant. By Kilian Sweet Redemption Carolina HerreraAmber Desire The subtly different names for the fruit give a clue to their origins: Mandarin (from China), Tangerine (named after Tangier in Morocco, Clementine and Satsuma (Japan). Cinnamomum verum is thought to have been an ingredient in the original holy anointing oil, mentioned in the Bible. Celine Dion Celine Dion Thanks to its aromatic edge, youre most likely to be intoxicated by it in shared (or masculine) creations. (Theyre deeply alluring to slugs, as gardeners know.) Britney Spears Curious 19 Can it purr? But nowadays, synthetic musks have widely replaced ambrette, on grounds of its priciness. When I take the lid off and sniff, I cant help letting out a long appreciative mmmmmmmmm. Calvin Klein CkOne The global high end perfume industry, generating $25 billion in annual sales, is readying itself for EU regulations that will come into force in early 2015. The jazz chanteuse Billie Holliday would tuck a gardenia blossom behind her ear before performing. It is dual, it has a multifarious seduction. Jo Malone London Wild Bluebell It is more theleather that you expect your gloves to exhale. Vera Wang Lovestruck. Cristobal Balenciaga Le Dix The Pheasants Eye Narcissus (a.k.a. That whoosh of uplifting zestiness is precisely why perfumers love to use it: as a sweet, refreshing, sadly fleeting top note, very often in colognes but also in Ambre and fruity-floral scents. Fragrances with high levels of ambergris (natural or synthetic) can also smell salty. 'When you smell it, you can almost feel it smarting on your tongue'. THE REASON TO BUY CHANEL PERFUMES: High-quality ingredients and a status symbol. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Lumire Noire Pour Femme Crabtree & Evelyn Iris Add a little lemon verbena to a fragrance, and it delivers a brisk, pure, floral-citrus scent, like bruising the fragrant leaves of this shrubby plant between your fingers. Stand in a bluebell wood, close your eyes and a delicate, green-floral haze will envelop and delight you: thats what perfumers who work with bluebell are trying to recreate. Crabtree & Evelyn Lily The note has a mystical air to it: in the language of plants, its been linked with prosperity, fidelity, virtue and positivity. We all know bamboo. LOccitane en Provence Th Vert la Menthe The most celebrated use of bourgeons de cassis has been in Guerlains 1969 perfume, Chamade. Since then, lily of the valley has also made its way into countless bridal bouquets (including that of Kate Middleton for her wedding to Prince Willliam); in many countries, its linked to this day with tenderness, love, faith, happiness and purity. (Strictly it should probably be a solifruit, but there you go.) Amouage Interlude. Water lily, as a perfume ingredient, is a little like lily lite. Theres nothing light and airy about guaiac wood, thats for sure. 'A fantastically juicy, tart citrus note,' explained perfumerJulie Mass toThe Perfume Society. 5 It almost hypnotises. Rich, warm, luxurious and comforting, honey works wonderfully to emphasise floral notes, or add touches of amberiness. Nobody grinds up metal and adds it to a perfume blend but the genius of perfumers is that they nevertheless have a way of conjuring up hints of iron and steel in a bottle, as an evocative fantasy note. Because when the flowers are over and their perfumes breathed its last black seedpods emerge. Each eclectic scent is packaged in a biodegradable pulp carton - a first in the beauty world - with an embossed lid made from recyclable paper packaging. Creed Love in Black Kenzo LEau Par Kenzo (Such complexity, in a single ingredient: no wonder many perfumers love it.) Some hay fever sufferers, maybe but most of us just love the fresh, green scent of grass. Paco Rabanne Ultrared James Heeley Esprit du Tiger We like this comment from Perfume Shrine, a great scent blog: When people complain I cant smell a thing!, its not necessarily anosmia, but too much ionones!, Goutal La Violette (The seeds, meanwhile, can also be used in pot pourri. LArtisan Parfumeur Fleur dOranger But theres also a teeny touch of vanilla to oak (synthetic vanillin, used in many baked goods and confectionery, is derived from wood shavings! Others are reminded of angelica, frankincense and celery, while we love this quote from the blogger Boisdejasmin, when she dipped her testing strip into some opoponax: The wave of warm, sweet scent washed over me: it smelled of aged whiskey, mahogany shavings and bitter caramel, but it was also velvety and powdery. The resin is extracted from the bark of the Commiphora eyrthraea tree (mostly from Somalia), and is also known as sweet myrrh. DiorEau Sauvage Chanel Chance Through a process of fractionation separating the different elements of an individual ingredient, and removing the potential sensitiser its possible to get an ingredient thats much closer to the oakmoss we know and loved. Goutal ParisLe Muguet The tangy oil that expressed from the (non-edible) bergamot orange, which is grown primarily in Italy. Gardenia (tiare) petals macerated in coconut oil, monoi is sometimes called Monoi de Tahiti. Lilies have been used in perfumery since ancient times: they were very well-loved in Egypt, as part of a perfumed ointment based on the flowers of 2000 lilies, while the ancient Greeks used Madonna lilies to make a perfume called Susinon. Symbolically, honey stands for the sweet life, prosperity, even immortality; the word itself comes from the ancient Hebrew word for enchant When man and bee teamed together, it turned out to be a win-win situation: bees got a safe place to live (and a reliable food source, in the form of flowering crops) and we got to harvest honey and beeswax in unbelievably impressive quantities: a single beehive can produce up to 200 kilos of honey each season. Its extracted by steam distillation of freshly-picked flowers, which must be a gorgeous task. Eventually, it is retrieved from a shoreline on the beach." Maybe. 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